Winter is Coming. And That Means J.W. Lee’s Harvest Ale.

Beer geeks tend to love their barleywines, and there is no barleywine finer that the J.W. Lee’s Harvest Ale, which is released every year on (or about) 1 December. Imagine my delight when Beer Table tweeted yesterday that the Harvest Ale was on tap! Naturally, Martha and I made plans to meet there after work yesterday evening. I went back again today to enjoy more of the Harvest Ale while writing college recommendation letters.

Barleywine by candlelight. Is there any other way to properly enjoy this beverage?

Barleywine by candlelight. Is there any other way to properly enjoy this beverage?

If you’ve never had JW Lees Harvest Ale, then I strongly urge you to drop whatever it is you are doing, go directly to your nearest quality beer retailer, and get yourself a bottle. This is more or less the gold standard for barleywines — so low in carbonation it’s pretty much still, full of powerful sweet malt aromas, and rich in flavors of toasted malt, an earthy, almost vegetal English hop character, and a slight oakiness.

Apparently this beer causes all production to grind to a halt at JW Lee’s for one day a year, as they mash in the massive amounts of Maris Otter malts destined to meet a healthy dose of East Kent Goldings hops in the boil. I’ve heard that the staff at the brewery is less than thrilled about making this beer each year, but I am thankful they make the necessary sacrifices. Few things make me welcome the arrival of winter like news of a new batch of the Harvest Ale.

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Homebrew Sunday: Bottling and Racking

Today was a low key day at the apartment, with a pretty simple plan involving bottling and racking.

First up was this year’s edition of St. Aedan’s Ale, the lightly spiced Belgian strong dark ale that I make for Christmas each year. It was more work intensive than recent bottlings, as the entire batch went into bottles. The beer finished off around 1.017, making for an ABV of roughly 9.3%. A potent holiday treat indeed! Flavorwise it’s a bit hotter than I would have liked, largely from the alcohol but possibly partly due to the spices. We’ll see if it mellows any with carbonation and a bit more time in the bottle.

Second task of the day was to rack the Fat Ethel Old Scottie Stout, which turned out stronger than intended at 5.25%, though that’s not too surprising since I overshot the target gravity by 7 points or so. This was only the fourth all-grain five gallon batch I’ve brewed, so I’m still in the process of sorting out what sort of efficiency I can get on a regular basis. The beer tastes fantastic, with a lovely roast character that doesn’t overwhelm the experience in any way. Really looking forward to drinking this, and I’ve got a strong suspicion that I’ll be brewing this again.

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Massively Overdue Homebrewing Update

Goodness gracious, I’ve fallen behind on this. Pretty sure the last update ended with the Green Magpie, which was meant to be a dry, hoppy, and refreshing saison that turned out dry and hoppy, though I’m not particularly thrilled about the hop character. I used all Cluster hops largely because they were what our local homebrew shop had on hand in whole leaf form and most descriptions mentioned a citrus character to the hop. I suppose that’s there, though I also get a weird ammonia flavor from it as well. If you’ve ever had Anchor Steam, you have a good idea of what Cluster hops taste like. Not sure exactly what went awry with the Green Magpie, but next year I’ll be looking into swapping hop varieties for something either more bright and citrusy like Citra or spicy like one of the noble hops. In preparation, I just ordered a pile of Amarillo and Citra whole leaf hops.

The figs got a bit gnarly looking after floating on beer for two weeks, but the end result is quite tasty!

The last of the summer saisons was the Blue Magpie Saison, named for the Taiwanese Blue Magpie. Figs and papayas are favorites of the bird, so we figured we’d incorporate them in the recipe. The base beer was a fairly straightforward saison with pilsner malt, a bit of wheat, and a good bit of Caramunich as well. I added a pound of fig puree made from a mix of fresh and dried black mission and turkey figs with ten minutes left in the boil. When racking the beer to secondary, I added another pound of dried figs and a pound of fresh papaya and let it sit for two weeks. Turned out quite nice in the end, with a decidedly sweet character that never cloys. Next year I want to try pitching a pack of brettanomyces when racking the beer onto the fruit in the hopes of developing a tart funky counterpoint to the fruit.

I kicked off the fall brewing with an all-grain ordinary bitter called Bitter American, which is pretty much the same recipe as an earlier beer called Bitter, Mike?, except for the use of all American ingredients: 2-row barley, a little crystal malt, Delta hops, and American Ale yeast. It’s super drinkable with a nice toasted malt character.

One of the fun bits was seeing the beer creep up into the airlock and take on a slightly green tinge from the hops.

In preparation for the next beer, I leaped into the world of on-line homebrew supply shopping and bought a pound of whole leaf Centennial hops, which are the sole hop used in some of my favorite American IPAs like Bell’s Two Hearted Ale, Founders Centennial IPA, and Ballast Point’s Big Eye IPA. Continuing our tradition of naming IPAs for their brew date, this became the Constitution Day IPA. The recipe was pretty straightforward, with two-row, some crystal 60 and 40, a bit of dextrose, and lots of Centennials, with the bulk of the hops added at the end for a big aroma blast. The dextrose addition was inspired by double IPA recipes, but I think it ended up drying out this relatively lower gravity (1.049) beer a bit too much. When racking this beer into the carboy, I failed to properly account for the volume the dry hops took up and ended up with about a pint of beer overflowing onto the floor. I suppose I can’t be doing too badly if that’s the first beer puddle I’ve made on the kitchen floor in a little over a year of homebrewing.

On the same weekend I bottled the IPA, I also bottled the one-gallon batch of a soured black saison that had been tucked away in the closet for three months. Two weeks after bottling, I tried a bottle. The aroma is fantastic, full of sour cherries, red wine and tobacco, and rather reminiscent of the Russian River Supplication which supplied the souring bugs. The flavor was pretty good as well, though with a weird medicinal off-flavor appearing near the end. I’ve read that sours can go through phases of flavor in the bottle, especially during the first month or two. I’ve hidden the rest of the bottles from myself to give them some time to (hopefully) develop a bit further.

Current name for this beer is Consternation.

The brewing plan for October called for two strong dark Belgian ales. The first was originally dubbed the “basic Belgian brown,” but it turned out nearly black so it’s now the Blackie Brown. Two gallons of that were conditioned normally and bottled. The remaining three gallons went into a carboy with dates, oak cubes, and the dregs of a couple bottles of Russian River Consecration to sit for six months and hopefully get a bit strange in a good way.

It's always fun to look at all the ingredients laid out on the table and think, "Soon this will all be beer!"

The second strong dark ale is this year’s edition of St. Aedan’s Ale, which is the Christmas beer I named (more or less) for my nephew. A strong dark ale made with cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice plus dates replacing the raisins from last year.

On the last weekend of October, I made my third ever all-grain five gallon batch, which is a dark mild destined for Thanksgiving dinner at my parents’ house. By a fun coincidence, this was batch #26 overall and it was fermenting over the NYC marathon weekend*, so it is now dubbed the Marathon Mild.

This is the Marathon Mild. Obvious choice of glassware is obvious.

Last weekend, I continued the all-grain trend with a re-creation of an 1868 Scottish ale (original recipe here) that has been dubbed the Fat Ethel Old Scottie Stout. In a case of classic shopping fail, I went to the local homebrew shop with a short shopping list (Maris Otter, black patent malt, and Fuggles plugs) only to find they were out of two of the three items. The black patent malt was replaced by a mix of roast barley and Carafa Special II, and the Fuggles hop plugs were replaced by Fuggles pellets and Willamette whole leaf hops. It turned out well in the end, with a black wort that tastes a bit of French roast coffee and dark chocolate.

And that’s where things stand right now. Next two items on the schedule are a second attempt at a Burton ale inspired by the Pretty Things KK and a smaller batch of an all-grain barleywine, some of which will be conditioned with Lagavulin-soaked oak cubes.

*I ran the NYC Marathon this year, which was my first marathon. Finished in 3:57:22.

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Homebrew Sunday: Nothing But Magpies

And when I say magpies in the context of homebrew, I mean saisons.

So here’s what’s happening on the homebrew side of things:

No pictures of beers today. Just birds. Here, a European Magpie, said to be the smartest of birds.

Last weekend I racked the European Magpie Saison (straightforward yellow saison fermented with the Wyeast Belgian Saison yeast, supposedly extracted from the Saison Dupont yeast). The Belgian saison yeast is known for being temperamental and taking many, many weeks to attenuate fully if the conditions aren’t just right, but it must have been happy with the ridiculous temperatures we’ve had here in NYC for the past few weeks and it turned a whole bunch of sugar into a whole bunch of alcohol without any issues. Despite having a higher finishing gravity than the other summer saisons, it tasted much drier. Curious. Will be bottling this about two weeks from now.

A Green Magpie, looking all curious.

Today I braved the heat to stand in front of a boiling pot of wort to make the fifth saison of the summer. This one is dubbed the Green Magpie Saison, and it’s a hoppy saison. Largely the same recipe as the Yellow-Billed and European Magpie saisons, though I cut down the wheat a little bit in favor of some rye malt in the hopes of getting some spiciness from the rye to go with the floral, spicy Cluster hops. Never used Cluster hops before, but that’s what they had in the whole-leaf stock at Brooklyn Homebrew and the description sounded interesting. Apparently they are one of the oldest (if not the oldest) hop variety grown in the USA. Going to dry hop this with Cluster and Delta.

A Black-Billed Magpie, which looks remarkably similar to the European Magpie. And the Korean Magpie.

Friday night we sampled the first bottle of the Black-Billed Magpie Saison, which is a black saison. In other words, it’s a black beer fermented with the same saison yeast that was used in almost all the other summer saisons. I deliberately used debittered dark malts, which have the husks removed in order to reduce the roast flavor while still providing the dark color. I also got a fair bit of color by using an extra dark candi syrup, which lent some dark fruit flavors as well. My problem with a number of “black” variations on beer styles (e.g. “Black IPA” and “Black Saison”) is that I don’t think the roast flavors of typical dark malts team well with either American hops or Belgian yeasts.

Anyway, the Black-billed Magpie was delicious. No harsh roast malt notes, just lots of lovely dark fruit and maybe some caramel flavors happening. Haven’t tried the dry-hopped version yet, and the sour version won’t make it into bottles until October.

Cheers!

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Homebrew Sunday

And now, an overdue homebrewing update!

As mentioned earlier, the plan for the summer is to make a series of saisons, as saison yeasts work well in warmer temperatures. All the beers will be named after various species of magpies, since the first beer I ever brewed was dubbed the “Magpie Saison” by one of Martha’s coworkers.

Yellow-billed Magpie Saison

The first saison of the summer was the Yellow-billed Magpie, which was a pretty straightforward saison. Pilsner malt, pale wheat malt, biscuit malt, dry malt extract, clear candi syrup and Willamette whole-leaf hops. Started out at 1.051 and fermented down to 1.006 with the Wyeast French Saison yeast (3711, in case you’re really into Wyeast strains). Turned out quite tasty, and I’m looking forward to tapping a wombat of this later in the week.

The second saison is the Korean Magpie Saison, which was the exact same recipe as the Yellow-billed Magpie with the addition of fresh ginger, pink peppercorn and orange peel at the end of the boil. Bottled it yesterday. The gravity sample tasted significantly drier than the first saison, with the spiciness of the ginger becoming quite apparent once it warmed up a bit. This should be interesting when carbonated.

The third saison is the Black-billed Magpie Saison, which is a black saison, as the name suggests. Two-row barley, biscuit malt, Special B, Carafa II Special, pale wheat malt, a little bit of chocolate malt, and extra dark Belgian candi syrup, plus Willamette and Delta leaf hops. Jet black in color, with an original gravity of 1.056, so potentially slightly stronger than the first two beers. Tasted it for the first time today, and my initial impression was that I could skip the chocolate malt next time around. Of course, a couple more weeks of conditioning and carbonation will make a considerable difference in the experience.

L to R: dry-hopped, soured, and unadulterated Black-billed Magpie Saison

Last week, one of my coworkers asked me what price I would ask to guarantee a bottle of everything I make. He said I should consider both the cost of ingredients and my time, and ended up giving me twenty bucks to guarantee that he gets a bottle of everything I brew this summer. While thinking about brewing on a recent run, I figured I’d take those twenty bucks and invest them in a 3-gallon carboy so I could play around with splitting batches for secondary fermentation. And so it is with the Black-billed Magpie. One gallon is being dry-hopped with Delta hops, one gallon is spending a couple months in a bottle with the dregs of a bottle of Russian River’s Supplication (a sour brown ale aged on cherries) in the hopes that it will pick up a bit of funky sour character, and the other three gallons are conditioning normally.

Up next, the European Magpie Saison, which will be the exact same recipe as the Yellow-billed Magpie, but will use the Wyeast Belgian Saison yeast instead of the French Saison yeast. The Belgian saison strain is supposed to do well in temperatures up to 95F, which seems fitting for the NYC summer. Plus it makes for a perfect opportunity to experience the difference a yeast makes in the same recipe.

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California, Part I: Auburn Ale House

We flew out to California for a week around Easter, with beer and birds on the agenda. Blastbeats would have to wait for our trip to Baltimore for Memorial Day weekend.

Our first day in California, Martha’s dad drove us out to the Auburn Alehouse. I’ve always thought Auburn had one of the more memorable exits on I-80 in California, as there is a giant statue of a man panning for gold at the exit. I remember seeing it for the first time just before dawn on my first cross-country drive the summer after finishing college — we had left Glenwood Springs, Colorado the previous afternoon and there was something spooky about a big miner appearing next to the road.

The one in front was called the Scarlet Harlot, and was my favorite of the selection.

The Auburn Alehouse makes a fairly straightforward line of beers, with an emphasis on hops that is fairly common on the West Coast. Like most brewpubs in California, they offer a sampler with everything that happens to be on tap at the moment. This generous attitude towards sampling could lead to trouble at places with more extensive selections, but that’s a story for another post.  For some strange reason, I forgot to take notes in Auburn, but here’s what I remember:

  • Auburn Alehouse makes two lagers, both of which were fairly decent, clean-drinking beers with a notable malt character.
  • One of their special beers was a pale ale brewed with hops from the Pacific Northwest, and the other was the Scarlet Harlot, a hoppy red ale. The latter was my favorite of the day, with a lovely caramel character followed up by the grassy, bitter hop finish.
  • Their Gold Digger IPA missed a perfect thematic opportunity to use Nugget hops.
  • We bought a bomber of their double IPA, which was pleasant if unspectacular.

One of a tidings.

Back in Sacramento, Martha spied a number of yellow-billed magpies in a baseball field, so we pulled over and spent some time watching them muck about in the field. No visit to the Central Valley is complete without some time with the magpies.

(Also, go here for more about the yellow-billed magpie from Martha.)

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Homebrew Sunday

It was a busy day at the 5th Street Bedroom Brewery, with 3.2 batches of beer being attended to in the course of the afternoon.

The primary project for the day was the Yellow-Billed Magpie Saison, the first of a series of saisons we’ll be making over the course of the summer. American and English yeast strains don’t perform well once the temperature gets into the mid-70s and higher, meaning they are more likely to produce undesirable off-flavors, but Belgian and French strains, particularly the saison strains known for making farmhouse ales work well at temperatures up into the 80s and 90s. This makes them better suited for the Brooklyn summer.

This saison should end up around 5.5% ABV, and is a partial mash batch made from Bohemian pilsner malt, pale wheat malt, biscuit malt, extra light dry malt extract, and clear candi syrup. I used Willamette whole leaf hops, which made the whole straining experience much, much easier. The plan is to repitch the yeast to make the next three or four batches, all of which will be variations on the same recipe. One will have ginger and possibly Szechuan peppercorn. Another will likely be a black saison. Fun times!

The second project was to bottle the Battle of Lee’s Mill double IPA, which ended up at a respectable 7.6% ABV and a mighty 98 IBUs. Not for those who don’t like a lot of hops. This started out as a 5.5 gallon batch, yet only 4 gallons or so made it into bottles due to liquid lost in the (rather extensive) dry-hopping process. We filled two 6 liter party wombats and 4 22oz bottles. When filling the party wombats, I threw an extra quarter-ounce of whole-leaf Delta hops in each one just because I could.

The third project was racking our Walpurgisnachtbier, which is an American blonde ale brewed with honey, peat-smoked malt, heather and pink peppercorns. It is incredibly pale straw yellow, and it attenuated down much further than expected. The smoked malt is definitely noticeable, but it doesn’t completely overwhelm the flavor. I had read a lot of stories of homebrewers having peat-smoked malt turn otherwise good beers into charcoal in a glass. Thankfully, we seem to have avoided that. It’s definitely an interesting beer — a bit sweet, with the smoke and spices creating an initial impression of sourness similar to something like a gose. Martha says this will be one to serve as 12 oz pours.

Finally, I added a second dose of dry hops to the Baldy Smith triple IPA, which is sure to send the non-hop-lovers running. That gets bottled this coming weekend. I’m expecting half of the original 1 gallon batch to actually make it into bottled form.

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I Brew (much of) the Beer I Drink

Having been publicly shamed, I suppose it’s time to start writing about the beer we make right here in our apartment.

This is a typical view of the brewery operating at full capacity. One batch in the primary bucket, one in the secondary carboy, and a bunch of bottles in the boxes on the left. Those are my dress shirts hanging at the top left.

We got started at the start of August 2010, when Martha decided she was tired of listening to me talk about wanting to start brewing and walked me down to Brooklyn Homebrew so I could pick out which equipment kit I wanted as a birthday present. A week later, we made our first batch (an unspiced saison using one of the store’s ingredient kits). Last weekend, we made our 15th batch, a creation of our own involving peat smoked malt, honey, heather and pink peppercorns to commemorate Walpurgisnacht. With four exceptions, the majority of our beers are partial mash batches, as we don’t have the space right now for the additional equipment required for proper all-grain batches. Three of the four all-grain batches we made were one-gallon batches done as experiments with styles such as barleywine and triple IPA that would be rather expensive as five-gallon extract batches. All of these were brewed simultaneously with a five-gallon batches to minimize the extra cleanup required.

Here’s a list of what we’ve made so far. Many of them are mere memories now, having been enjoyed by us and our friends and family. Beers listed by batch number. These are all partial mash 5-gallon batches, except #12, which is all-grain.

  1. Magpie Saison – August 2010. Partial mash batch brewed from an ingredient kit. 6.4% ABV, 20 IBUs. Our friend Suran declared it the first beer she ever liked, which was encouraging.
  2. Labor Day IPA – September 2010. Partial mash American IPA brewed from another ingredient kit. Brewed on Labor Day weekend, this started our tradition of naming IPAs for events that share their brewdate. 5.9% ABV, 63 IBUs.
  3. St. Aedan’s Ale 2010.  Brewed October 2010. A Belgian strong dark ale based on an ingredient kit, to which we added Lyle’s Black Treacle, brown sugar, raisins, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg. Made as a Christmas beer and named after my nephew.
  4. Guy Fawkes IPA. An English IPA brewed November 2010 and aged on oak chips in secondary. Learned the hard way that four weeks on an ounce and a half of oak chips is way too much time. The best way to drink this was mixed half-and-half with the Labor Day IPA. 5.4% ABV, 40 IBUs.
  5. A nameless brown ale made in November 2010 from another recipe kit. Easy drinking stuff that was a big hit at Christmas with my family. 3.8% ABV, 14 IBUs.
  6. Fat Ethel Chocolate Stout. Stout brewed with cacao nibs in December 2010. Named for our portly tabby. The last beer we made from a Brooklyn Homebrew ingredient kit. 4.7% ABV, 24 IBUs.
  7. Monty the Nose’s Bathtub Gin Pale Ale. Made on New Year’s Day 2011, this is the first recipe I created from scratch. A pale ale brewed with juniper berries, orange peel, coriander, cardamom, and hyssop. Named for our other cat, a tuxedo whose loathing of all things alcoholic leads us to believe he must be a Prohibitionist. 5% ABV, 30 IBUs.
  8. Moonlight Battle (Double) IPA. Brewed January 2011. Based on a recipe for Pliny the Elder, this was our first highly hopped beer and first experiment with heavy dry-hopping. Probably my second-favorite beer so far, after the juniper pale ale. 7% ABV, 78 IBUs.
  9. Teddy Ballgame Old Ale. Brewed January 2011. An old ale that was plagued by errors at every step — I measured grain in kilograms rather than pounds, repitched yeast for the first time, and pitched way, way too much yeast. Ended up having an unfortunate medicinal quality to it. 6.4 % ABV, 54 IBUs.
  10. Bitter, Mike? Brewed February 2011. A best bitter named for a line from the British TV comedy Spaced. Hugely drinkable session beer that disappeared from our apartment very, very quickly. 3.8% ABV, 29 IBUs.
  11. Brookklyn Burton. (That’s not a typo.) Brewed March 2011. Inspired by Pretty Thing’s November 15th, 1901 KK Burton Ale, this recipe was cobbled together from a number of sources, including this Barclay Perkins 1928 KK recipe. I made my own invert no. 2 sugar from Lyle’s golden syrup and blackstrap molasses. 7.4% ABV, 68 IBUs.
  12. 1952 JW Lees Best Mild. Brewed March 2011. Another historical recipe, which I followed fairly faithfully. Since it was a fairly small grain bill, I decided to make an attempt at a full-size all-grain batch. It turned out quite well, though I overshot the target gravity in the end. Very sessionable, though the cumulative sweetness after three pints or so is a bit much for my tastes. 4.1% ABV, 26 IBUs.
  13. Monty the Nose’s Bathtub Gin Pale Ale. Brewed April 2011. We liked the juniper pale ale so much that we decided to make it again.
  14. Battle of Lee’s Mill Double IPA. Brewed April 2011. Once the warm weather hits, we can’t make English and American style ales without an abundance of diacetyl and other off-flavors that may result from high fermentation temps, so we figured it was time to lay in a properly hoppy beer for the summer time. Similar to batch 8, though lacking in Simcoe. 7.2% ABV, 98 IBUs.
  15. Walpurgisnachtbier. Made last weekend, still fermenting. American blonde ale with honey, peat smoked malt, heather and pink peppercorns. O.G. 1.052, 21 IBUs.

In addition to those beers, we’ve also done a handful of one-gallon batches. The first was inspired by a need to use up the extra grain we had on hand following by measurement issues for batch #9. That turned out well, so it seemed proper to play around some more.

  1. Conversion Error Ale (batch #9.2). Brewed at the same time as the Teddy Ballgame Old Ale, this turned out to be the better of the two beers by far. If forced to pin a style on it, I would guess ESB. 5%ABV, 65 IBUs. Very tasty.
  2. Point Two Baby Barleywine (batch #11.2). Brewed at the same time as the Burton ale. Inspired by JW Lees Harvest Ale, this has nothing but Maris Otter malt and East Kent Goldings hops. Have yet to open up a bottle, though the sample for testing gravity was mighty tasty. 8.9% ABV, 54 IBUs.
  3. Baldy Smith Triple IPA (batch 14.2). Based on a Pliny the Younger clone recipe and brewed alongside the Battle of Lee’s Mill double IPA. Still getting loaded up on dry hops in secondary.

And there you have it. 

If you’re interested in the recipes for these, many of them are up on my Hopville profile page.

At the moment, there are roughly 24 gallons of beer in my bedroom closet. This is not a bad thing.

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Pretty Things December 6, 1855 East India Porter

Tuesday night found us at Rye House for the NYC launch party of Pretty Things December 6th, 1855 East India Porter, the latest in their “Once Upon a Time” series of historical beers. It was a bit of a special occasion, as Ron Pattinson, the guy responsible for unearthing all the historical brewing logs which inspired the sereis, was on hand for the event.

We tried the cask-conditioned version of the East India Porter, which was far hoppier than most modern folks would expect from a porter, yet it was refreshing with a luscious maltiness. We chatted with Dann, Martha, Jim and Anya of Pretty Things about brewing, drinking what no one else is drinking at pubs in small English towns, Victorian fashions, and the joys of stickers. We told Ron about our attempts at brewing two recipes from his site. We met fellow Brooklyn teachers and homebrewers.

It was a grand old time. Naturally, I forgot my camera.

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Local Brewery Makes Good Beer!

Ok, so the biggest and oldest of the local breweries in our borough, the Brooklyn Brewery, is neither obscure nor particularly hard to find, but I’ll admit I do go through phases where I’m not so impressed with their output. It’s a problem that probably wouldn’t happen if I didn’t live in NYC where I have regular opportunities to sample the full range of Brooklyn Brewery’s creations.

For anyone unfamiliar with the Brooklyn operation, they have essentially three categories of beer. There are the year-round beers, which show up in 12 ounce bottles and kegs, are widely distributed beyond NYC and cover standard styles, including an IPA, a Vienna lager, a pale ale, and a pilsner. In the past couple years a number of large-format year round bottles have appeared, with the Local 1 and Local 2 Belgian-style ales being the two regulars. The second category is the seasonal beers, including summer and winter ales, an Oktoberfest beer, the outstanding Black Chocolate Stout and my personal favorite Brooklyn beer, the Black Ops, which is a bourbon barrel aged imperial stout that is released near the end of each calendar year. Most of these tend to make it around to the same markets as the year-round beers. The third category is the Brewmaster’s Reserve series, which are special concoctions available only on draft and typically only in New York City, with the occasional kegs making their way up and down the East Coast. Some of the Brewmaster’s Reserve beers appear somewhat regularly, while others are one-offs.

It must be a big day in the life of a Brooklyn beer when it gets its own tap handle.

Last time I counted, there are over 30 different Brooklyn Brewery beers I’ve tried, with Brewmaster Reserve items making over half the total. Having the opportunity to try all of these beers is definitely a benefit to living in Brooklyn, even when the beer is disappointing. I’d been on a bit of a lackluster run of beers lately, but I was excited when I read the tap list for a Brooklyn Brewery event at The Gate, one of the oldest (if not the oldest) good beer bar in our neighborhood.

Top of the list for me was the Dark Matter, a brown ale aged in Woodford Reserve bourbon barrels. I’d tried this at a cask festival last spring, along with its cousin, Darker Matter, which was aged in barrels that had just had Black Ops drained from them. Both were interesting, if slightly on the sweet side, and I was interested to see how the flavors had developed.

Detonation double IPA and Dark Matter. Two beers in the neighborhood of 10% ABV, served in pint glasses. Draw your own conclusions.

This time around, the Dark Matter was excellent. It gained a light tartness that complemented the maltiness of the brown ale and the sweetness of the bourbon very nicely.

I also had a glass of the Detonation, Brooklyn’s first proper double IPA. When I first tried this several months ago, I remember it being unusually sweet with not as much hop bitterness you would expect for a double IPA. I’m not sure if it was time or simply contrast with the Dark Matter, but the Detonation was excellent this time. Some toasted and caramel malt flavors followed by a bracing hop bitterness that was assertive without being overwhelming.

The Gate served both of these beers, which are 8.8% and 10.5% ABV, respectively, in 17 ounce pint glasses. Naturally I had no complaints at the time, as it meant more beer for me, but the next morning was a bit rough. Such are the hazards of the beer-loving life. The good news is that I am excited about Brooklyn Brewery again.

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